The map – Click to enlarge

Neelagiri hela been the only prominent rocky mountain around Lahugala was on my list for many months not because of it been a mountain but the archeological value it had. Last year when I visited Neelagiri Sthupa I was told that there’s plenty to see around Neelagiriya in addition to the huge extensive complex of Neelagiri seya. The forest which engulfs this area extends for miles with ancient buildings belonging to Neelagiri monastery. I got the opportunity to re visit the gigantic sthupa with few of my colleagues few days back and when we reached the sthupa I met Amila who was on duty. My first question was “do you know how to get to the ruins at Neelagiri hela?” and he promptly replied by saying If I wanted he could show me the way.

It only took me 4 days and I was all ready to explore Neelagiriya. With a short notice Amila and Priyanjan was prepared to join me on this venture. My self and Amila proceeded to Arugam bay because we had some spare time until Priyanjan arrived and we spent it by visiting Muhudu maha viharaya, Thune kanuwe ruins and Lahugala Kotawehera. I would only mention few words about 3ne Kanuwa ruins here because I had already written about the other two places previously in an old report. 3^rd mile post ruins could be seen beside Potuvil – Siyambalanduwa road and only few pillars and a Pagoda was found at the site. From here we proceeded towards Kotawehera where we enjoyed some panoramic scenery and headed towards Lahugala. After meeting up with Priyanjan we took a tuk tuk and arrived at the Neelagiri Sthupa. Other than Amila(guide) , Danushka and Krishantha also joined us. We were followed and routinely disturbed by two dogs and out of them the black one almost gave us death scares by running towards us like a bear.

dawn at arugam bay

fishing at arugam bay

the only RDA board sponsered by department of archaeology

old pagoda

lonely pillar at 3ne kanuwa

kota wehera

forgotten era

kitulana tank

Komari

Neelagiri hela as seen from kota wehera

100% natural

restoration begun

We were now walking along animal foot paths with ears and eyes wide open since this is elephant country and closing on to the rock the chances of meeting sloth bears also increased. After about a 2Km hike we reached the opposite side of the mountain where the ancient steps towards the cave complex could be found. The steps were done craft-fully and guard stones were placed after every five steps or so. The steps ended at a cave with a brick wall and in it we saw frescoes on a plaster. Only few parts were spared by time and local visitors who have scribbled on it. The colours were green, red and orange mainly and it seemed there was a painting behind the Buddha statue which once stood in this image house. Close to this image house there were few more caves connected to each other and some were filled with fallen pillars and rock plates. Some even did have inscriptions and well carved drip ledges signifying the importance of this place.

the hut where the arche boys spend the night

off we go

deiyanta bara wenawa

elephants have rubbed the back

bin kohomba

A.R=Archaeology reserve

steps to heaven

more to climb

a cave with a drip ledge

guard stones

moon stone

still in good shape

entrance to the cave

Budda statue vandalized

what remains

more

culprits

patterns

another cave

note the inscription

more remains

cobra hood

outlet

remaining wall

note the plaster

our friend

We decided to get to the top of the mountain so we proceeded uphill from the caves. The dried out fallen leaves were ever so challenging but somehow we managed to get to the top. The mountain has two parts and we climbed up the western peak which had a huge rocky plateau. The endless view towards many wildlife parks and forest reservations was simply a bonus. The cleared off Neelagiri sthupa was noted as a mini mountain in the greenly dry zone forest. One could enjoy a panoramic view of Lahugala national park, Lahugala and Kitulana tanks, Komari forest, Yala, Kumana and Kudumbigala areas, Arugam bay lagoon, Komari lagoon, Magul maha viharaya, Kota wehera and mountains of Gal oya which includes Wadinagala, Govinda hela and etc. All over the summit pieces of pots could be found and also we came across two Pagodas. The lower one had a circular drainage cut which protected it once from dripping water along the rock and the main sthupa which once stood tall all mighty on the summit was said to be the glorious “Akasha chaitya” of Magama kingdom (according to El. Medhananda thero). Now only few bricks could be found at this historically important sthupa. There is also a 6’ tall stone wall bordering a Bo maluwa at the edge of the mountain which still stands tall. After raising the fallen flag we decided to begin our downhill journey which was done cautiously.

almost at the top

rest after a tough climb

stay away

the blue sky

towards wadinagala

degal hela

Pano of lahugala

Neelagiri seya

more to walk on

the old rock wall on the rock

maragalakanda

pottery pieces

the twin summit

potuvil…komari

Lahugala

not edible

protection to the pagoda from water

beauty…so close to the ocean

wow

colours

Akasha chaitya of magama

a rock pond

shadow of the cloud

kudumbigala

kotiyagala, yala

our flag

our second trouble

After getting to the base we decided to visit some ruins said to be remains of a palace. There were a row of pillars placed as a wall enclosing a ruin site and from there we climbed up few steps which were carved on a rock to get to and interesting cave where plenty of Vedda paintings were found. As always seen Vedda paintings brings me extreme ecstasy. We saw paintings of few veddas, a flower and few four legged creatures. The vedda paintings part was excluded from the cave at a later stage when it was redone and offered to the monks, the wall which separates the paintings justifies our observation too. The drip ledge inscription of this cave was so unique in the sense it was so small and hardly noticeable. We returned back to the ruin site and had our afternoon lunch before we started our return journey towards Neelagiri sthupa.

After a highly satisfactory adventure we reached the mighty Neelagiri sthupa and lied down for half an hour before saying good bye to our newly met friends and headed back towards our destinations.

giant foot print

a boundary

remains of the maligawa

an altar

steps

Vedda drawings

samber painting

a flower

more drawings

miniature inscription

the wall seperating the drawings

the cave

getting back

open area

team minus Priyanjan and the two doggies

elephants at lahugala

Thanks for reading!

After Using Lakdasun Forum I used to follow (Imitate) the journeys of some senior members. Ashan’s off season Sri Pada Via Palabaddala( 2nd trip report in the forum) is the one which brought me to this forum. When I read Mithila’s Series of Trip reports “ Huffing Puffing “ I rushed to Borella and purchased a new bicycle ( But yet to do a hike).And last few months one thing was itching in my mind .That was about the hikes of our Hi King ( Ashan). I just thought why he does most of the trips alone. What are the benefits of traveling like that? Is it relaxing? There must be something although one can argue as it’s rather boring. But I just wanted to experience what he experienced in those journeys. So I decided to go on a LONLEY TRIP. Same time my lakdasun friends invited me on several trips but I kindly refused them as I had other intentions. From nowhere, Bambarakanda came to my mind and I quickly went through the above resource articles. This time I just thought of doing these trials alone even without a guide.

So without even informing Mrs.Mayakaduwa I started my journey towards Bambarakanda. I left home around 4.30 and came to Kaduwela by a Three-wheeler and got in to a Badulla CTB Bus. Neither bus nor me in a hurry so we slowly reached Kalupahana(just before the 172nd Mile post) around 10.30am(It stopped for breakfast at Pelmadulla).Then I took a TukTuk and reached the Bambarakanda rest around 11.00 am.

View of the fall and the mountains from the BAMBARAKANDA REST

First cottage where I stayed. Basic facilities but clean .

Interesting

Three Sisters ( Wangedi gala,Balathuduwa, Gon Molliya )

To my delight there were no any visitors. Mr. Lanka (Mrs Mayakaduwa’s Son in Law) welcomed me and showed me the cottage. I told him that I want to do Lanka Ella & Top of Bambarakanda trails and come for lunch. So I had a change and packed a bottle of water and some biscuits then left the rest around 11.30 a.m. I had the trail Lakdasun trail guides in my phone and adding to that Lanka gave me a sketch drawn by him. Those were my guides

I suggest (If you are a new one this forum) to download the trail guide (Lanka Ella ) while reading my report.

Waypoint: BL04 (Observation point)

Waypoint: BL05 ( Cement steps)

Waypoint: BL09 ( Concrete bridge )

After 100m I turned right and reached the base of the Bambarakanda falls

Waypoint: BL11 – Highest waterfall of Sri Lanka from its base

Then I returned to the track and proceeded

Trail Trough the Pines plot ( Be careful it’s slippery)

Waypoint: BL16/BL17 ( Left will take you to Lanka Ella Right will take you to Top of Bambaraknda falls) Here I picked the left trail

View from Waypoint: BL16

On the way ( After passing BL 21)

BL 22 ( Split of the trail ) left will take you to the base of Lanka Falls

Glimpse of Lanka Ella

Another waterfall(zoomed) seen in distance( approaching is little difficult )

LANKA ELLA

Base pool resembles the Sri lanka

Another view

Base pools seemed not deep. As Mrs. Mayakaduwa explained later Due to heavy rain/flood happened recent past structure of the base pool was changed.

I remembered the trip reports of Sri and Dhanushka mentioning that there was another fall upstream called Yalathenna. Also Sri has told me there are seven more falls up stream. But I didn’t attempt it as I was alone. Instead of that I tried some other waterfalls which were downstream from Lanka Ella.

After returning from Lanka ella I saw two other falls down the valley. But there was no path to reach them and going down was little dangerous as it was slippery and nothing there to get hold of. But one of them was really beautiful so I couldn’t stop achieving that beauty. So with extreme care I went to the base of the falls. Interestingly I observed that steam creates few more mini waterfalls downstream. I kept exploring them in future and returned back to the path. When climbing I had to use four wheels sometimes my stomach as the spare wheel

Tiny Cascade

This is the beauty who invited me. Yet to put a name for her

See the marked point .It seemed Steam creating few more cascades. but didn’t have much time to explore

Path I came. It is rather difficult than it seems

Then I came to the Way point 16/17 and picked the upward path to reach the top of Bambarakanda falls. One thing I have to tell you that. Although the elevation is not a big issue for a experienced hiker, the slippery pine needles made it really difficult to walk .And the pine trees had considerable amount of space between them. So if you slip and unable to catch a pine tree you’ll be in a really dangerous situation as there is a huge drop at the right hand side of the path. So I never suggest this path to be done at night, in rainy days and by drunken people.

But scenery of the valley was splendid.

On the way

Tricky part

Valley and surrounding mountains

.

Interesting place where you find huge drops in both sides

The side view of the fall

Somehow rather I kept a considerable distance from the drop and therefore I missed the path to top of Bambarakanda which was right hand side .I traveled further upwards and reached a road. What to do …in Sinhala there is a saying “ Peralunu Pita Hondai “ so I just loiter around and find the First part (Top most ) of the falls. According to Mrs. Mayakaduwa Bambarakanda has three pats but the lowest part is documented as 750 ft. If all the parts are combined together the Height should be 885+ Ft.

Road I reached ( Bambarakanda –Horton’s planes road)

Top of the top part (un documented ) of the falls

Then I returned back. I could easily find the path to the Top of bambarakanda falls and its upper Fall ( 2nd fall)
I enjoyed the view and came back to the Rest around 3.30 p.m. Climbing down was much risky.

First and second falls seen from a distance

Middle fall which was on top of Bambaraknda falls

Base pool at top of Bambarakanda falls

Hey I’m at the top at highest waterfall in Sri lanka

Getting down was much risky.

I had my lunch then had a little nap. In the evening I had a chat with Mrs.Mayakaduwa and Lanka. My plan was to visit Uduwara & Nagaduwa falls next day. Mrs Mayakaduwa mentioned that better to take a guide as the path goes through line houses and tea estates so just to make sure not to create any problem with locals. I agreed and had dinner and went to sleep

I Woke up early in the morning and able to catch up some beautiful sceneries around the rest and

View from the garden

Yellow is my favourite colour

Another cottage

Mrs.Mayakaduwa’s Doggies . Front one is Changumi (Pomeranian ) Behind old fellow is Alsatian. According to Mrs Mayakaduwa Changumi was captured by a leopard who came to the garden and the one behind and another doggie chased the big cat ( GEMA ILLIEMA) with the help of people and rescued changumi from a certain death

I had breakfast and started the journey around 8.30 a.m with the guide Susantha who is a small chap. Mrs Mayakaduwa told me the view of the surroundings is much better than the beauty of the falls . Anyway I downloaded the trail guide of UDUWARA AND NAGADUWA falls to assist my guide if needed as he was not familiar with the names of the falls although he had visited them.

Please Follow the trail guide of Uduwara and Nagaduwafalls

Went through the short cut

Another view

Coming back to the Road

Bambarakanda seen from distance

.	Landmark Getting back to the forest patch

Hard climb

.

.	Udaveriya factory

Line houses

Misty

.	Pictures won’t express the real buety

Wow	Like an icing cake

Difficult part through Mana patch

.

Destination

Uduwara

Nagaduwa

Both

One and only photo of me

We spend some time there and had some biscuits enjoying the surrounding.

Misty

Nearby mountain which villagers used to go and do rituals

We came back to the rest around 10.30 a.m. and had a small rest and prepared for the return. After saying good bye to Mrs. Mayakasuwa and others I left the rest at 12.00 noon. Mrs. Mayakaduwa arranged me a three-wheeler. I used it to pay a visit Surathali ella Which is close by (around 168km Post /near the bridge )

Name board is visible to the raod

Land Mark

Nearly 100m trek to the fall

Surathali

(Not Much of water)

View of the top part Surathali from the main road

I took a bus to Haputhale with an eye to give a try to visit Adisham Bungalow and Lipton seat .But the overcast conditions and lack of time did not allow me to proceed further. So keeping those targets in another trip I took a bus to Colombo and came home having beautiful memories of my lonely journey.

Thanks for reading

Map 1 – Click to enlarge

Map 2 – Click to enlarge

Kingdom of Magama which is also guarded by lord Katharagama is one of the most visited areas by Sri Lankans and most of the time they only manage to visit few places which are commonly known. First of all Hasitha’s report was the guide I used to plan my journey and succeeded with what I attempted in! Im not going to mention anything related to the history of Magama kingdom in detail since Hasitha has done a good job in his report! As the title says this is a summery on Kataragama, please do enjoy the images!

Sithulpawwa rock temple (6°23’15.20″N, 81°27’1.84″E)

An ancient Buddhist monastery, believed to have been occupied by 12,000 Arahant monks at one time. Thought to have been built in the 2nd Century BC by King Kawantissa, who ruled the area then, Sithulpawwa derives its name from Chiththalapabbatha, which meant, the hill of the quiet mind.

friends i met at katagamuwa

old bodhiya at sithulpawwa

a cave kutiya at sithulpawwa

kuda sithulpawuwa

maha sithulpawuwa

towards yala

a lake at sithupawwa entrance

ancient pagodas ‘s

the main inscription

the caved image house

prathimagaraya

kings of magama?

highly dangerous

more ruins

another kutiya

how maha situlpawwa is seen from the lake

to be excavated

ancient path

on the way to the summit

kuda situlpawwa

temple premises

buttala

gal kudaya

kataragama and thissa

more drip ledge caves

the lake with crocs

lake side inscription

ruins

Arjuna been fed by visitors

wild samber

Sella Kataragama (6°26’10.19″N,  81°18’11.44″E)

Sella Kataragama is the place where god Kataragama first met his first consort Valli Amma. And the ancient mahasen viharaya also is in close proximity. There is another devalaya called Lakshmi devalaya which seems to be only a money oriented place and I would not recommend the place to any traveler.

a dip in menik ganga

Sella kataragama

not devatha eli

the bo tree at sella

Ancient Ruhunu Kataragama festival

Kataragama festival this year was held during August month; though the crowds were reduced a bit the festival didn’t lack anything! For the second consecutive year I was lucky enough to witness the Perahera too.

Day two was all about visiting Kiri vehera and Wedihitikanda.

awaiting

simply awesome

the bands

lighting up using traditional lamps

gini paganno

smoked

wewal dance

kohomba kale

fine movements

kawadi too

යක් නැටුම්

a peacock dancer

the karaduwa been caried

worshiping

Kiri vehera (6°25’26.43″N, 81°19’56.38″E) and the kataragama museum (6°25’4.74″N, 81°20’4.95″E)

Kiri Vehera is an ancient stupa built by King Mahasena. It is 95 ft. in height with a circumference of 280 ft. This structure probably dates back to the 3rd century BC. There are some ruins, inscriptions that the general public doesn’t even notice and I was focused mainly on those. Also the museum is a must visit place they even show a mini film regarding Kataragama. Few ruin sites found at Veheragala have been transferred to the museum premises.

dawn at kataragama

kataragama devalaya

the dances

rituals

Kiri vehera

the චුදා මානික්‍ය

an inscription at kiri vehera

honeymoon couple

variation

Kataragama museum

bodhigaraya found at weheragala

inscription pillars

another pillar

Detagamuwa lake

striving

on the hunt

caught you

lovely landscape

kataragama season

Wedihiti kanda/Kataragama peak (6°23’12.39″N, 81°20’9.11″E)

400m tall mighty wedihiti kanda was a dream that came true for me and climbing it at 12pm was ever so challenging but the stunning scenery and the climb resembling adams peak was worth the trouble. There is an access route for vehicles too or you could hire a vehicle to the summit from the base. One could enjoy a panoramic view of Kataragama, Kirinda, Thissamaharama and Yala without any difficulty at Wedihitikanda.

Day 2 ended with a bath in Thissa wewa and I went back to Monaragala planning to return back on the next day.

Wedihitikanda pano

endless steps

a family we came across

wow we are almost there

thissa wewa

note yatala and thiss sthupas

yodha wewa

detagamuwa lake and kataragama

yala

pano towards kataragama

endless view

kiri wehera

few more lakes

kirinda side

gods high up in the sky

the southern ocean

wedihitikanda sthupa

bo tree

wow	getting down

Day three my focus was on Thissamaharama and Kirinda areas so I got down at weerawila lake to do some bird watching before reaching Debarawewa to start my archaeology hunt.

Weerawila lake (6°17’33.90″N, 81°14’7.31″E)

Since it was the season of drought there were plenty of birds to see also the landscape was stunning.

Weerawila tank

Black winged Stilt

fishing at weerawila tank

peaks of Katharagama

halted

plenty of these guys too

the picturesque road

grey heron

open bill

ibis, herons and spoon bills together

all together

dried out tank

painted gang

art of mother nature

Debarawewa Pashchimarama Raja maha viharaya (6°16’51.37″N, 81°15’55.69″E)

It is located few hundred meters from Debarawewa junction on Hambanthota road. There are few scattered ruins and a wonderful ancient statue of Buddha!

Debarawewa Pashchimarama RMV pagoda

ancient statue at Debarawewa Pashchimarama RMV

Menik vehera (6°17’6.88″N, 81°16’15.58″E)

Menik vehera is the first place one would come across while traveling to thissa wewa from Debarawewa. This is believed to be a creation of king Maha naga the brother of king Devanampiyatissa

Menik vehera

menik vehera sthupa

pillars at Menik vehera

guard stone at Menik vehera

Etha Bendi gala (6°17’8.97″N, 81°16’19.80″E) & Remains of a four storied building (6°17’8.43″N, 81°16’21.31″E)

Etha bendi gala is believed to be where Kadol etha (King dutugemunu’s) was tied on to. The four storied building is said to be a palace. Both these places are found next to Menik vehera.

Etha bendi gala

where it was tied

pillars which once held a four storied palace

plenty of pillars

Yatala sthupa and the museum (6°17’8.34″N, 81°16’33.25″E)

This was built 2200 years ago by king Maha naga where his son Yatalathissa was born. Since then this had been restored many times and now the original shape of it had been completely lost. The museum was closed for renovations so I had to be satisfied with the artifacts seen in the garden. Yatala temple which is on the opposite side of the road has one of the largest Asanagaraya’s in SL.

Yatala sthupa

Yatala museum

ruins

inscription at yatala

wow	another interesting carving

muthra gala

the stone used to wash away

prathimagaraya

an image house

a statue

king maha naga

wow	i love this pink

submerged pa dowanaya

a huge asanagaraya at yatala temple

Tissa lake (6°17’5.95″N,  81°17’20.11″E) and Akurugoda pillar (6°17’8.91″N, 81°17’34.22″E)

Tissa lake is a picturesque lake built by king Mana naga. Akurugoda is believed to be the main city of Ruhuna but unfortunately many ruins are covered with reestablished civilization. The Akurugoda pillar could be reached by taking the road to the right from the makara thorana on Kataragama rd. the pillar is the largest inscription pillar I have seen in Sri Lanka.

dried out thissa lake

scavenging

life line

wow

gulping

a jacana

beautiful thissa lake

Akurugoda inscription pillar

pieces of history

Tissamaharama vehera (6°16’47.30″N, 81°17’29.17″E)

This gigantic masterpiece was done by king Kavanthissa and this is one of the solosmasthana in the country. Lord Buddha’s remains are said to be placed in this pagoda.

before repairing process started (2010)

under renovation

chatra stone of thissa sthupa

old + new

Sandagiri Seya and ruins (6°16’50.80″N, 81°17’42.36″E)

Sandagiriya is just behind Tissa dhageba and there is an actual model of the sthupa in its athulu maluwa too. To get to the image house one should take the road near the archeology office for few hundred meters.

Sandagiri seya

proper replica of sandagiriya

yupagala

chatra gala

inscription at sandagiriya

beautiful guard stone

prathimagaraya

Yoda wewa (6°15’40.03″N, 81°18’30.81″E) and Kirinda (6°12’47.60″N, 81°20’7.14″E)

Yoda wewa is believed to be done by king Maha naga and its one of those giant lakes in the area. Next I took a bus to Kirinda. It started to rain but I just loved the drizzle. Kirinda was the place where princess Viharamahadevi drifted ashore after being sacrificed to the sea by her farther.

yoda wewa

beautiful giant

Kirinda

the statue at kirinda

a devalaya

the rock with inscriptions

sri pathula carved on the rock

vihara maha devi

pagoda at kirinda

maha devalaya

rough sea at kirinda

another inscription

Telulla archaeology site (6°11’46.54″N, 81°17’30.08″E) & Kirindi oya estuary

Telulla was not in my plans but after giving some calls to Priyanjan and NG it was included as my final destination. From Kirinda I got to Yala junction and hired a trishaw guy who had no idea about this place near the moya kata of Kirindi oya. So google maps aided us all the way until we reached the site. This is a must visit place but be careful of wild elephants especially in evenings since this belongs to Bundala park. We also managed to visit Kirindi oya fall out to the great oceans and that sight was enough to satisfy my tired sole and end up my expedition around ancient Magama.

ran goyama

thelulla beach

sand dunes

Kirindi oya moya kata

colour of the sand was red

wow

Thelulla ruined pagoda

Telulla ruined pagoda (another one)

pillars at telulla

history hidden in bundala reserve

Thanks for reading!

History of Hambanthota (හම්බන්තොට)

When the Kingdom of Ruhuna was established it received many travellers and traders from Siam, China and Indonesia who sought anchorage in the natural harbor at Godawaya, Ambalantota. The ships or large boats these traders travelled in were called “Sampans” and “thota” means port or anchorage so the port where sampans anchor came to be known as “Sampanthota” (which is now known as Godawaya). After some time the area became to be called “Hambanthota”.

Hambanthota District is part of the traditional south known as Ruhuna. In ancient times this region, especially Hambanthota and the neighboring areas was the centre of a flourishing civilization. Historical evidence reveals that the region in that era was blessed with fertile fields and a stupendous irrigation network. Hambanthota was known by many names ‘Mahagama’, ‘Ruhuna’ and ‘Dolos dahas rata’.

After a personal dispute with his brother, King Devanampiyatissa of Anuradhapura, King Mahanaga established the Kingdom of Ruhuna in the south of the island. This region played a vital role in building the nation as well as nurturing the Sri Lankan Buddhist culture. Close to Hambanthota, the large temple of Tissamaharama was built to house a sacred tooth relic.
(Source – en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hambantota )

Hambanthota is being rapidly developed during last few years. Hambanthota new port, Mattala (මත්තල) international air port and international conference center are newly added parts to this city.

Tourist attractions of Hambanthota.

Martello tower and old light house.

This is situated within the Hambanthota city. You have to go along the Kachcheri (කච්චේරි) road to reach both structures. Both structures are situated close each other.

Martello tower
This tower was built by the British military shortly after defeating the Dutch in Ceylon, end of 18th century. The builder was Captain Goper around the years of 1801 and 1803. It was built on the tip of rocky mountain close to the lighthouse. There is a panoramic view of Hambanthota town and sea on top of this tower. Later it was a part of Hambanthota Kachcheri where the land registry branch was placed. Former tower was restored in 1999 and fisheries museum was there. Now it has been renovated by archeology department and awaiting for opening.

The tower is 25feet in height and 40 feet in diameter.

Martello towers are small defensive forts that were built across the British Empire during the 19th century. They stand up to 40 feet (12m) high with two floors and typically had a garrison of one officer and 15-25 men. Their round structure and thick walls of solid masonary made them resistant to cannon fire, while their height made them an ideal platform for a single heavy artillery piece, mounted on the flat roof and able to traverse, and hence fire over, a complete 360 circle.
(Source-en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martello tower – 177kWikipedia)

Martello tower

On top of Martello tower

View of Magampura Mahinda Rajapaksha Port (මාගම්පුර මහින්ද රාජපක්ෂ වරාය)

Staircase to go down

Ground floor with rooms – They said photography of the inside of tower is not allowed till it’s reopening.

Old light house
This light house is not functioning at the moment.

Old light house of Hambanthota

Lamp of the light house

Then we turned back and stepped towards the old quarters used by British civil worker and famous author Leonard Wolf. Then we took the road on right hand side when just pass the quarters. It went to a circuit bungalow and we entered the beach through circuit bungalow gate. Hambanthota gallows can be seen there.

The quarters used by Leonard Wolf. Renovated and awaiting for reopening as presidential house of Hambanthota.

Hambanthota Gallows
This gallows was used during British colonial period for hanging people. It’s height was around 30feet. At the moment we can see only a part of this gallows. British rulers used this gallows to hang rebellions of 1818 rebellion. Leonard Woolf has watched this death penalty through the window of his house.

Gallows distance view

Hambanthota beach-Gloomy due to rainy weather.

Hambanthota Gallows.

Hambanthota beach

Catholic cemetery-Hambanthota
It is situated few meters from Hambanthota main bus stand towards Amablanthota (අම්බලන්තොට). Mr. H. E. Engelbrecht’s tomb stone is situated here. Most of the time it’s gate is closed and have to get the key from Catholic Church. But this tomb stone can be seen even at the entrance.

Tomb stone of Mr. H.E. Engelbrecht

Mr. H.E.Engelbrecht was happened to be a Boer POW who was brought to Sri Lanka in 31st of May 1902. Later he became the Game sanctuary keeper of Yala National Park.

Hambanthota fish harbor
This can be seen from the main bus stand. This fish harbor was built recently and consider as an unsuccessful fishing harbor due to collection of sand there.

Hambanthota Fish harbor

The entrance for boats

Fishing boats

Andare’s Tomb (අන්දරේගේ සොහොන)

The road which brings you to Andare’s Tomb is situated in Hambanthota-Thissa road at Udamalala (උඩමළල) junction. You have to take the left hand side road from Udamalala junction where Andare’s statue is placed. After travelling about 1.5-2km in this road we came across the place where Andare was dead on his way to home.

Andare’s statue at Udamalala junction

Andare’s tomb

The last poem Andare has sung before his death.

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Hambanthota Lanka Salt plant and factory.
I was lucky enough to visit at factory of Lanka salt production. It is situated in Thissa-Katharagama road from Hambanthota.

Ralabadana (රළබදන) – Sea water is pumped from this bay towards salt plant. In old days sea water currents were used instead of pump

How they send sea water for salt production by pumping.

Salt plant

Lanka salt factory.

It is a long process to produce salt what we eat from raw salt. Although my friend described it I didn’t need to memorize it.

Production of salt.

Washing of salt is a main part.

Bulks of salt.

Yahangala (යහන්ගල) and Bandagiriya (බදගිරිය) archeological sites.
These two archeological sites are situated along the road towards Bandagiriya from Pallemalala (පල්ලේමළල) junction in Hambanthota-Thissa road. First you will come across Yahangala in 3-4kms and then Bandagiriya in 9kms.

Yahangala archeological site
This is considered as a Buddhist hermitage belongs to Anuradhapura period. It has two caves, two stupas, ponds and ruins of some other buildings. Two pagodas are situated close each other. This is an important character of this place.

Climbing Yahangala rock

Twin pagodas

Stupa 1

Stupa 2

Ruins of a shrine house

Scattered ruins

Cave 1

Cave 2

The pond

View of Bandagiriya from Yahangala

Bandagiriya archeological site
This also considered as an ancient Buddhist hermitage belongs to Anuradhapura period. It has two rocks. Two pagodas can be seen on one rock-similar to Yahangala. New temple is situated at the base of the rock. You can have a nice panoramic view on top of Bandagiriya rock.

Heading to Bandagiriya rock

Details of stone inscription

Stone inscription is protected

Twin Pagodas

Steps to new stupa

Other rock….Buddha statue is situated here

Scattered ruins

Bandagiriya Lake

Water purification project at Bandagiriya

Mountains at Katharagama side

View of Yahangala from Bandagiriya

Mattala air port is shown in white arrow and red arrow indicates Sooriyawewa International cricket ground.

Bird parade at Bandagiriya Lake

Hambanthota wind mills
This wind mill is situated in pool tank road from Hambanthota. It is the first wind farm of Sri Lanka.It has 5 turbines and total power generates is 3MW. It belongs to Central Electricity Board. (CEB)

Four out of five…..

Full height of the wind mill

Closer view

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Ranminithenna Tele Cinema Village (රන්මිනිතැන්න ටෙලි සිනමා ගම්මානය)

Ranminithenna Mahinda Rajapaksha Tele Cinema village was opened on 2010 March. It is the only cinema village located in Sri Lanka provides location for films. Then it has a modern studio and accommodation for actress and production staff. It expands over 230acres.
Tele cinema village is situated in Tissamaharama-Katharagama road.
It is opened from 9am to 5pm daily for public. Photography within the village is not allowed as shooting of an Indian film is going on these days. But somehow I managed it.

Appearance of old Bombay city for the Indian film.

They only build outer construction.

Another city.

How they build using hardboards.

Some buildings don’t carry roofs.

Massive constructions for new Bombay city.

The lake.

The tele drama called Korale Mahaththaya (කෝරලේ මහත්තයා) was done here.

Few boutiques of the village.

Day 2 – Archeological visit to and Sithulpawwa (සිතුල්පව්ව) and Tissamaharama (තිස්සමහාරාම)

Sithulpawwa (සිතුල්පව්ව)
Sithulpawwa is situated in Yala national park. We went to Sithulpawwa from Tissamaharama (24km travelling) and this road goes through the park. It is opened for travelling from 6am to 5pm only.

This Buddhist hermitage belongs to 2nd century. The name Sithulpawwa is derived from ‘Cittalapabbata’- ‘the hill of the quiet mind’. It is said in the 1st century AD as many as 12,000 Arahants lived here.

Two main rocks at Sithulpawwa are called “Maha Sithulpawwa”-400feet high and “Kuda Sithulpawwa”. On top of “Maha Sithulpawwa” (මහසිතුල්පව්ව) you can see Pagodas and ancient Bo tree. Once you get down from Maha Sithulpawwa you can visit at “Dalada Madura” (දළදා මැදුර), old cave temple and ruins of Bodhigaraya and Patimagaraya (ප්‍රතිමාඝරය). In between Maha Sithulpawwa and Kuda Sithulpawwa (කුඩා සිතුල්පව්ව) there is a lake called “Dakshinathissa Lake” (දක්ශිණතිස්ස වැව).
The surrounding view from both Maha Sithulpawwa and Kuda Sithulpawwa is fascinating.

Places you can see and visit at Sithulpawwa.

Plan of Sithulpawwa.

“Galgeya’’ගල්ගෙය

Maha Sithulpawwa main Stupa. Below this, there are three stupa. This was built by King Kawanthissa (කාවන්තිස්ස රජතුමා) (100-140AD).

View of Yala Park from Maha Sithulpawwa.

One of accessory Stupa.

View of elephant rock from Maha Sithulpawwa.

Ruins of ancient image house/Dalada Madura.

Contents of Rock inscription.

Ancient cave temple. 67feet high and 30feet long.

Buddha statues found in the cave temple.

Below the drip ledge some marks of ancient paintings can be seen. Those are belonging to Anuradhapura period.

Bodhisathwa statue and statue of a king.

“Siripathul stone” සිරිපතුල් ගල .

View of Maha Sithulpawwa.

Information of Patimagaraya.

Steps to Patimagaraya.

Ancient Bodhigaraya.

Ananda Bodhiya (ආන්නද බෝධිය). A branch of Ananda Bodhiya in India.

Dakshinathissa Lake (දක්ශිණතිස්ස වැව).

We walked to Kuda Sithulpawwa from Dakshinathissa Lake by new pathway and came down by old pathway

Steps to Kuda Sithulpawwa-new pathway.

Twin ponds.

Kuti of meditating sermons.

Kuda Sithulpawwa stupa.

Umbrella stone.

“Kasina Mandala” කසින මණ්ඩල

Cave	View of Maha Sithulpawwa and accessory stupa from Kuda Sithulpawwa.

View from Kuda Sithulpawwa.

On our way back through Yala.

Yala Magul Maha Wiharaya (යාල මගුල් මහා විහාරය)
This is considered as the place where royal wedding occurred between King Kawanthissa (කාවන්තිස්ස රජතුමා) and Princess Wihara Maha Dewi (විහාරමහා දේවිය). (There is another place at Lahugala called Magul Maha Wiharaya.) This will come across on the way to Sithulpawwa.
It has newly built stupa on old one and scattered ruins. There are few caves and one of them was converted into an image house. Literature says there are caves with sketches of pre historical era. But I couldn’t find them.

Moonstone-No engravings.

Stupa

Newly built Buddha statue on the rock.

Scattered ruins.

Main cave temple.

Reclined Buddha statue found in the cave.

Back

Sandagiriya (සදගිරිය) Archeology site
Sandagiriya stupa and archeology site is situated just behind the Tissamaharama stupa. This stupa was built by king Mahanaga (මහානාග රජතුමා) (First King of Ruhuna sub kingdom). It was renovated recently. The model of old stupa can be seen on a side of main Stupa.
Ruins of a “Bodhigaraya” (බෝධිඝරය) can be seen in front of the Stupa. On right side of main stupa they have excavated ruins of a “Janthagraya” (ජන්ථාඝරය) (hospital). There is a small road on right hand side of the main stupa and it will bring you to ruins of an image house and a pillar inscription.

Sandagiriya stupa and it’s model of an old form. Note the umbrella stone found on top of the model, but not seen in actual one.

Ruins of umbrella stones can be seen around the main stupa.

Ruins are preserved well.

Entering to the Stupa.

Ruins of “Janthagaraya”.

Ruins of the image house.

Guard stone (මුරගල) of the image house.

Pillar inscription ( ටැම් ලිපිය)

Tissamaharama Stupa (තිස්සමහාරාම ස්තූපය)

Tissamaharama Stupa was built by King Kawanthissa and it was enlarged by King Illanaga (ඉලනාග රජතුමා). This is the most famous and largest Stupa in Southern province. It has a height of 156ft and circumference of 550ft. It has the frontal bone of Lord Buddha-“Lalata dhathuwa” (ලලාට ධාතුව).
Only few ruins can be seen around the stupa.”Kanda Oruwa” (කැද ඔරුව) takes a special place from them.

Tissamaharama Stupa.

“Kanda Oruwa” (කැද ඔරුව)

Remaining ruins.

Another view of Stupa.

Tisa Wewa (තිසා වැව).

Akurugoda pillar inscription (අකුරුගොඩ ටැම් ලිපිය)
This is a 30feet high pillar inscription contained Brahami script belonged to 2nd BC. There are different thoughts of content of this inscription among archeologists. When you go towards Katharagama from Tissamaharama on Thissa lake bunt you will come across a road in right hand side just after the road towards Tissamaharama stupa. Then you have to travel about 500m along the road to reach there.

Akurugoda pillar inscription-found as broken in two pieces.

Closer view of the pillar.

There is another well preserved archeology site in middle of Tissamaharama town. It is situated in front of Tissamaharama pradeshiya sabhawa (තිස්සමහාරාම ප්‍රාදේශීය සභාව).

It is bit surprise to see an archeology site in middle of a town. As gate was closed it was captured from outside.

Yatala stupa (යටාල වෙහෙර) and archeology museum.

Yatala stupa and archeology museum will come across on your way from Tissamaharama to Debarawewa (දෙබරවැව) in right hand side.

This stupa is believed to be built by King Mahanaga in the 3rd century BC on the ground which his queen delivered a son. This stupa has been identified as Mani Chethiya and Yattalaya in various historical documents.
Mahanaga is a brother of King Dewanampiyathissa (250-210 BC). History states that that when Mahanaga was inspecting the construction of Walas Reservoir (වලස් වැව), the queen of Dewanampiyathissa send him a bowl of Mangos with the top most one poisoned. Her intention was to kill Mahanaga to ensure the throne to her son after Devanampiyathissa. At that time the son was with his uncle at the tank and child ate the poisoned mango and died on the spot. Fearing reprisal he took his pregnant wife and escaped to Ruhuna where he built up his own regional kingdom surrounding Magama area.
It is not known what was enshrined in this stupa but a large number of relic caskets have been discovered in the stupa.
This stupa was completely restored and a small opening has been left to observe the different phases of construction. The restoration work of the Yatala Stupa commenced in 1883 AD. It took over a century to complete the restoration.
(Source – amazinglanka.com/heritage/yatala/yatala.php)

Yatala stupa and surrounding water canal filled with lotus. The elephant wall (ඇත් පවුර) surrounds the stupa may be the oldest one of Sri Lanka.

Note the granite pinnacle found on the ground of the stupa.

Image house on the side of stupa.

Awalokitheshwara statue අවලෝකීතේශ්වර ප්රතිමාව).

Toilet stone was found at Yatala wehera. It is now located at archeology museum premises.

View from museum side.

he archeology museum was closed for renovation on the day of our visit.

Etha Bandi Gala (ඇතා බැදි ගල) and pillar inscription.

After passing Yatala stupa, you will come across a stone pillar on your right hand side towards Hambanthota. It is situated in a bare land, surrounded by a fence. This is called Etha Bandi Gala and a pillar inscription can be seen on it. It is believed King Dutugamunu has tied up his Elephant-Kadol (කඩොල් ඇතා) here.

Etha Bandi Gala stone pillar.

Information of pillar inscription.

Where Elephants were tied.

Menik Wehera (මැණික් වෙහෙර)
Menik wehera is also situated in same side of the road towards Hambanthota about 50m after Etha Bandi Gala. It was built by King Mahanaga and due to new constructions no ruins can be seen here.

Menik Wehera can be easily captured from road.

Debarawewa Paschimarama RMV (දෙබරවැව පශ්චිමාරාම රජමහා විහාරය).

This situated in Debarawewa junction in right hand side towards Hambanthota. It is also built by King Mahanaga. Ancient stupa, Buddha statue and scattered ruins are special features of this temple.

Stupa of Debarawewa Paschimarama RMV.

Scattered ruins.

Standing Buddha statue made by limestone.

Thelulla (තෙළුල්ල) archeology site.
This place I was happened to visit. Directions for Thelulla archeology site is

Hambanthota-> Bundala junction in Thissa road->Bundala->Siriyagama->Thelulla

When you reach Thelulla ask about “Galkanu Mandiya Temple” (ගල්කණු මණ්ඩිය පන්සල). Although an archeology office is there nobody could find in our visit. Stone pillars of two buildings and basement of two stupa could be seen here. Special feature is one stupa has octagonal basement. Later I got to know this Buddhist cemetery is belong to Anuradhapura period and there are two ruined stupa in forest closer to this site.

Scattered stone pillars.

Stupa-well preserved by archeology department.

Stupa which has octagonal basement.

Seems it has been a paradise of cattle.

Thanks for reading.

Map 1 – Click to enlarge

Map 2 – Click to enlarge

Degal hela (Diggalahela) is also known as Rock of Siyambalanduwa. This isolated monadnock was first seen while climbing Govinda hela last year, since then it was a dream for me. Though I found a guide to show me the way the weather was always turning from bad to worse when ever I plan to do so. On a Saturday early morning I met Ajith from 2^nd mile post at Siyambalanduwa and proceeded towards Helamulla ancient temple which lies at the base of the mountain where I was introduced to Sena who promised to take us uphill. The weather god’s made sure that a bit of drizzle would make it bit more challenging to us. We curved along the mountain climbing boulders and reached a slope which was not much difficult to tackle and at last we were almost at the top after a one and a half hour hike. The summit has two rocks hence Degal hela(450m). And on one of those there was a ruined pagoda just like all other mountain tops of Wellassa. We walked along the ridge and enjoyed a panoramic view towards Siyambalanduwa. Though it was a gloomy day I did manage to identify many landmarks. Actually one could clearly see Madulsima range, Govinda hela, Wadinagala, Siyambalanduwa, Monaragala, Kotiyagala, Yala, Athimale, Mahakalugolla, Lahugala and potuvil side. We didn’t forget to climb both rocks though it was bit challenging.

For the return route we choose the abyss between the two rocks and this was a tough descend considering the slippery nature of the rocks. I won’t recommend anyone to climb from this route for many reasons. At a half-way point we came to a nice dry and large spacious space covered by a hood formed by the rock. After hanging around a bit we headed in search of a “Gal siyambala” tree. None of the “gal siyambala” trees were spared by local gangs who are doing this in an organized manner. The way they have cut trees there will not be a single tree left for the future generations. It is said that one tree fruits in 10 years or so. We found an untouched tree which we cut offed a small number of braches leaving few for the tree. Collecting Gal siyambala for two hours was a memorable thing for me and even Ajith been a local have never plucked these fruits. We somehow collected about good 2Kg’s before descending towards the base to end our hike.

450m Diggalhela

kissed by the mist a rare sighting at siyambalanduwa

Crawling along boulders

musrooms

the drop

a rest before the last crawl

last bit

ancient pagoda on the summit

Muthukandiya reservoir

Buddama,Nape,Wadinagala and west minster peaks

Kithal hela and kukulamulla range

Maragala covered with mist

Helamulla wewa

towards yala

drop	second peak

Dombagahawela and monaragala

paddy fields and chena

the cave close to the summit

first rock

peaks of gal oya

on the edge

Buttala & Wellawaya side

Lahugala and panama

the team

lakes at hulannuge

hulannuge taru lengala

2nd mile post junction

Hulannuge and lahugala

life

pano towards siyambalanduwa

framed

kahata

window view

the cave

well balanced rocks

resting a bit

mission gal siyambala

plucking gal siyambala

the product

we plucked 2Kg’s

mother nature trying to hide human cruelty

De gal hela = two rock mountain

There are few archeological sites in the vicinity and I have written about them on one of my previous trip reports called Heritage around Siyambalanduwa. Sena had some information of a place which I was not aware about called Weherapudama. This place is a rocky plateau surrounded by civilization with lot of debris of buildings and few rock ponds. Interestingly we found a cave too. My assumption is that this place might have been a monastery once. After thanking Sena for the “manyokka” lunch with “waraka” desert I took off towards Monaragala to end my adventure for the day.

a new type of light post

off we go towards weherapudama

kema	drainage line

view from weherapudama

pillar holder

bits of bricks

bat cave

Day two again it was Siyambalanduwa, for this expedition four of my colleagues from GH Monaragala joined me. Early morning we drove towards 10^th mile post of Ampara – Siyambalanduwa road. I think most of you guys must be knowing about Govinda hela which was once a fortress. Ah! We were going to govinda hela but not to climb it but to explore a cave complex called Bingoda which once served the purpose of a monastery. There is a foot path starting just opposite Sarath’s tyre shop which is now covered at few places because the place had been abandoned for 2 years. The ancient road had well placed steps and at some places steps carved on rocks which led towards a cave complex. We at least came across 10 caves with drip ledge inscriptions. And the largest cave had tree tops kissing its drip ledge. The largest cave should be the largest and tallest cave in Monaragala district. We also found a good view point (balum gala) where we sat for a while before leaving this mysterious place behind.

Entering the forest while the rays of the sun tried to creep through

mighty westminster abbey

beautiful path

ancient steps

entrance

monliths

reaching the sky

where they once gathered

steps covered with leaves

ancient lake at the base of the mountain

the foot path from the lake

the first cave

even the monk was counted

another cave

its inscription

plaster

bark mushrooms

the lipa

blent with nature

a huge cave

the largest

the drip ledge with inscription

difficult to get a full view

a symbol

inside the cave

another cave

Kiri mati guhawa

නම මසුරං උනාට වැඩ නම් පිත්තල(thanks kasun for the caption)

unfinished caves

the view from a rock

jayanthi lake & pallan hela

Wadinagala & walasgala

said good bye to the cave

still together

After getting to the main road we thanked Sarath and took off towards Damana where we took the Pannalgama road for 10Km’s to reach Ambalam oya reservoir which is said to have the longest bund in the region. After enjoying some stunning scenery we decided to return back and on the way we did stop at Ekgal oya reservoir too.

Though our last destination was Arugam bay we proceeded towards Panama and reached Panama bay where Wila oya meets the ocean. Since it was not safe to bathe at this picturesque location we returned to Arugam bay where we had lunch and nice warm bath though it was drizzling. The gloomy lagoon produced some unusual scenery for us. I also must state that the way Arugam bay hotels (mini) treat locals is very unsatisfactory and you will feel like punching them on the face if you go to a wrong place… we returned back on A4 towards Monaragala at around 6Pm on that day.

Ambalan oya reservoir

beautiful ambalan oya

comron

halted

wadinagala as seen from ambalam oya

Ekgal oya reservoir

beauty

Panama

edge of panama

panama beach

getting gloomy

wow what a place

a lagoon

Gloomy arugam bay

meeting at the horizon

full of visitors

lonely traveler

Thanks for reading!

The map {Green=Kurulangala purple=starting point }- Click to enlarge

This is a journey which I treasured a lot and at the end of it I was left with many unanswered questions. Few weeks back there was a news clip from a TV channel shared around Facebook about some paintings in Ella, Karandagolla. The uniqueness of it was enough to stimulate me to go in search of these paintings within few weeks! The monk at Karandagolla was my main resource person who found a guide and arranged everything. Let me share with you my little adventure and reveal few secrets of a forgotten era.

Me and my friend Thilanka met at Wellawaya on a Sunday and headed towards Karadagolla. We got off at Uma oya project road which led uphill and after 2Km’s we reached Karandagolla ancient temple where the head priest greeted us. I have been here previously and it’s a must visit place for a traveler for more information check out this link. We were introduced to our guide Meththananda and his friend Ariyarathna at the temple where we packed our essentials for the journey and returned back to the road.

Kurulangala where the paintings are found

poonagala kurulangala

view from karadagolla temple

hooded cave of rakkiththakanda temple

note the queen in the image

solos mas sthana

From there onwards it was all about creeping through the forest and climbing uphill, the initial path ran through a relatively flat area with undergrowth but within no time it was a continuous climb along a dried out stream. We were blessed with a good forest cover almost to the top because we followed the stream and that was an added advantage. The climb was getting steeper and frequent pit stops were a must, suddenly we were greeted with a view through the branches which gave us goose bumps. I was advised to remove the shoes and I did obey to that because it was all rock climbing from here onwards. 70 – 80 degree angles were not welcomed but we had no other option. Grasping on to bundles of creepers we were climbing along the steep rock and keeping in mind not to look back. At one place I tried climbing up while grabbing on to a rock but my knee grip gave away and for the first time in my life I pleaded for help. Hanging on to a rock so tightly, frightened and wondering if someone would help me; my friend reached me fast as a bullet and pulled me up so I could take a deep breath on safe land. I was shocked and every step I took there after seemed uncertain. Our nightmare continued and again we had to tie ropes and climb up with the aid of it! Since I was still stunned by the previous incident even small ascents were a major task by now. At one time Thilanka screamed at me and asked me to get away from the path since a loosened rock was been pushed back by him to allow me some time to climb up on to a nearby tree. Within moments a one square foot rock rolled down further terrifying me. The view from the sheer drop was the only image I captured before the summit. Last bit was not much difficult but just before our destination there was a huge angled root along the rock which we used as a ladder.

off we go

undercover

along a stream

the path we took

deadly steep

phew

through the trees

we were climbing up along this angle

gosh how i am gonna get there

wow

Pus wela

SF guy climbed along a tree

at the edge

on the way scenery

last bit

oh what a view.

At last we reached the cave and fell down with joy. After a while I gazed at the endless paintings and wondered who would have done such master piece at such a location. There is no other path to this place other than the one we took. If you attempt from Poonagala side you have to descend first and follow the path we took. The view towards Wellassa was breath taking and was a pleasure to the eyes. There were two birds screaming around and locals believe them to be protectors of Kurullangala. Let me try and describe the paintings these were painted along a rock plate of this hooded unprotected cave and the area which is less exposed had the best preserved paintings. There were no plaster used and paintings were done directly on the rock wall. The main colour used was a dark red and some paintings were almost 4 feet long. Plenty of peacocks, Hawk eagles, other flying birds, Monkeys or aliens?, Horned creatures, a female figure, a pea fowl and etc were few paintings which we identified. These were not primitive art work like the ones done by veddas and we were left with many questions. From department of Archeology we got to know that these were at least 5000 years old and that’s an approximate figure (they are still doing further evaluations), they also stated that they are planning to preserve the site and that was simply wonderful news for us. Considering all the facts we were left with few questions and assumptions

1)      Were these done by Yaksha / Naga tribes who ones lived in SL?

2)      Was this a place where rituals were carried out?

3)      Seen so many peacock drawings at such an altitude were so strange since peacocks couldn’t be found at such an altitude at least 5000 years back. Since the area of Ella is well known to be related to King Ravana’s legend and since he ruled during 2500 BC, could these be related to Ravana?? (all assumptions on the current approximate dating, these might change with time)

Panorama from the cave

wow

Wellawaya

surrounded by the cliff

uma oya project

buttala

yudaganawa

towards monaragala

the cliff

mysterious paintings dating almost 5000 years back

not much of room

paintings from a different world

pea fowl

plenty of birds

a horned creature looks furious

plenty of paintings

hand prints

faded away

wonder if this is a hawk eagle

close up

two peacocks

monkey or alien?

Extinct species??

beautiful

wings

whats the purpose of these type of paintings

damn im so lucky to witness these in SL

another peacock

a figure

belts

what remains

the only shelter

towards balleketuwa

having a rest

heavens

life at the edge

our guides

the belt with the paintings

bonsai

While having lunch we were thinking about all those possibilities and we were left with only assumptions and plenty of unanswered questions. For the last time we went through the paintings thoroughly and started descending. By now my fear was gone away but yet the descent was ever so challenging. With few falls we did manage to get back to safe ground and return to the starting point at around 4Pm. After washing ourselves from the waterfall at Karadagolla temple we thanked our guides and left towards our destinations.

time to get down

on the branch

steep descent

with the aid of creepers

more to go

where we were

I’m writing this to create awareness because as I heard treasure hunters are on their way.  Also I sincerely wish all future visitors would not scribble and damage these paintings. I also wish department of Archaeology would do their best to protect this site at least with a fence or some other way (just like in Sigiriya) so these remaining murals would last few more generations. Also Preservation process should begin ASAP. There is an untold unheard yet mysterious story behind these murals and hope time will reveal it!
Thanks for reading!

Hi everyone, . So the hike plan begins @ office as usual. I was out of office for 1.5 months on training and the team had planned a trip to Alagalla. People plan the trip and invite us, and finally it is only me & Pasindu who do the hike while the ones who planned it are dropped off which happens most of the time. So what we say to them is, “we will be leaving in this train @ this time, if you are coming, please come on time for the train”

For me, it was a night shift on Friday night and I had gone to office with my backpack and camera ready for the hike in the morning. Pasindu planned to join me from Polgahawela in the train. After office, I hurried to get hold of the Badulla 5.55 am train and was on time. As planned, Pasindu joined me & off we went on a packed train to Ihala Kotte. The trail can be done from Pilimathalawa, which is a little easy compared to Ihala Kotte, But we did not know of it. Anyway, I would suggest starting from Ihala Kotte and descending to Poththapitiya to experience both the routes.

We got off and had a quick breakfast and started our climb immediately.

A few steps starting from the railway station

It is a daily hike to the villagers from the railway station to the nearest village up in the hills.

Pasindu & Myself

The last place where you will find water

Passing the above the tank, you will find a U turn to your left and then you will come across a house. You can ask for water from them too. That is the last house until you reach the peak and come back.

Going through the tea estates. Saw a tiny cobra on the way back here

From here onwards, it is dense forest. Leaches are abundant during the rainy season

On our way, villagers warned us about leaches because it was the monsoon season which was slowly fading away. So Pasindu bought a packet of shampoo and applied it on his legs. I thought applying shampoo on your legs was gross and didn’t apply it and also thought that there might be a few leaches which I will take off one by one when I see them crawling up on my legs during the hike. So off we went, after a good scolding & warning from my buddy.

Path was covered with bushes. Aftermath of the monsoon.

The forest patch started with a muddy entry point and undergrowth which surprised us. We didn’t think that it would be so tough after the rain. The ascend was so slippery that we couldn’t imagine of our descend.

How far do we need to go? No idea machan.

From the point where the forest starts, I saw a leach on my shoes and took it off and started to go forward and I didn’t even walk 10 meters when I felt a few stings in my legs and to see, within a few seconds, there were many leaches on my shoes and legs. And surprisingly, I saw leaches flooded on the ground. I was shocked, I didn’t have time to stop to take off the leaches, so we proceeded. Off we climb and more and more leaches get onto my shoes and sneak inside my shoes. It was really painful but I couldn’t help but proceed with the leaches sucking my blood. More than that, what irritated me was Pasindu scolding me for not listening to him.

On some places, the mana bushes were taller than us.

Time for a quick pic

Those poles helped us from slipping during this hike along with easing the pressure on our knee joints, while the straps of my backpack lost grip and was falling back.

Couldn’t find the path we came from. These were way taller than us.

After the thick forest, you will come to this patch of Mana grass and then you will see a small rock where you can rest a bit. The first thing I did after reaching this particular rock was, take out the leaches from my feet and legs.

A few who remained before saying bye to me

While I was pulling off the leaches, I remembered to take a few pics. But by that time many of them were already taken off. When I went home and counted the number of wounds, I had 35 of them and as you can see in the pictures, for one wound there were not just one leach, for some wounds there were as many as 8 leaches sticking together and sucking blood from the same place. So I can imagine about 50 plus leaches on my body on that day.

There were 8 of them in that particular blood sucking well.

Aftermath.

This is the rock I had told you about which is just before the peak.

Finally at the base. Pointing the railway station of Ihala Kotte

Ihala Kotte railway station zoomed a little bit.

It was a nice view from here

Some fresh air to breathe

After reaching the base of the peak, you will have to climb the rock. But we did not attempt it because it was still slippery. Rather, we tried to find a safer way to the peak by going down the rock from its east.

If you slip, you can imagine the impact.

This is the way to the peak if I’m not mistaken

The peak.

Trying to find another way to the peak.

Beautiful mountain on the west of Alagalla

Both of us.

He came on this hike with a broken toe

What a nice view

We were relaxing a bit, eating biscuits and then thought of descending because we ran out of water. On the way back, we met a few students from a University and we told them that we are from Lakdasun and apparently they were from another hiking group called “Awidinno”. We spoke with them for a few minutes and bid them farewell and continued our descent.

I slipped and fell 8 times

Though he was laughing at me when I fell, he fell 5 times as well.

The last picture after clearing the forest patch…Can see how tired we were.

On the way back we took the Poththapitiya route and then took a bus from there to Pilimathalawa and then back to Colombo.

So until the next hike, be safe and have a nice day everyone and thank you for reading my trip report.

After 7 consecutive successful waterfall tours, I thought it’d be a long time before I could continue where I left off due to the variable rain patterns and severe drought in many areas. However, the late arrival of the South-Western Monsoon made me perish my previous thoughts and revive these journeys and what a time Atha and I had on 14 Sep when I re-started the program.

I’m a passionate fan of the waterfalls, the most wonderful creatures of the Mother Nature. Just a glimpse or a piece of news is enough to make me travel many miles regardless of the weather or terrain to see these Pristine-White Virgin Beauties. They can make you feel relaxed, refreshing, reinvigorating, calm, energetic, special, etc. I’ve felt a whole lot more when I’m with them and my vocabulary is not so rich to express all those feelings.

I’ve a penchant for being with them as long as possible, simply looking at them can make my all sorrows, no matter how terrible they are, vanish into thin air. I’ve already a collection of more than 100 waterfalls in my Facebook page and I hope to visit as many as possible before they disappear from the face of earth thanks to ignorant, careless and heartless activities by many idiots.

I got a sudden craving to go see some of these beauties in and around the Sacred Mountain, Sri Pada and Atha too decided to jump in and this was a very last minute journey making only the two of us this time. We left around 4.00am on a rainy dawn and reached Kalugala Junction while the sun was battling an unwinnable fight against menacingly thick and grey clouds. The Kelani River that runs parallel to A7 was not so rich making us anxious to the water levels of the falls. We were nonetheless fully committed to the mission by then to turn around.

Tour Highlights:

1. Gerandi Ella, Morahenagama.
2. Laxapana Ella, Laxapana.
3. Mulgama Lower Falls, Mulgama.
4. Mohini Ella, Nallathanniya.
5. Mulgama Upper Falls, Mulgama.
6. Gartmore Falls, Gartmore Estate.
7. Peak Field Falls, Peak Field Estate.
8. Peak Field Mini Falls, Peak Field Estate.
9. Cluster of Seasonal Falls, Gangulthenna.
10. Yaka Andu Ella, Gangulthenna.
11. Peace Pagoda, Gangulthenna.
12. Sri Pada Ella, Gangulthenna.

Morahenagama Gernadi Ella

Kehelgamu Oya, usually very rich and jumpy during the rains was not so alive. I was feeling a bit depressed inside as I longed to see more water in the falls. We chose the upper road at Bodhigira Junction that runs to Norton Bridge passing Laxapana Power Station. The morning light was appearing over the misty mountains while we savored the fresh air. For those who, including ourselves, living most of our lives in the concrete jungle of the city, filling our lungs with poisonous air, this is a very welcome opportunity and I always want to travel with lowered shutters.

We came to the Morahenagama Gerandi Falls around 6.30am and got down to see that she still had the same amount of water like we saw last time. I felt like it was high time to open the shutter count for the day and we both got out in the drizzle and started shooting away. She’s so tall yet again I could find no record of her anywhere.

Morahenagama Gerandi Ella

The top of her

Portrait

Not much water flowing down

Laxapana Ella

Passing her we continued our merry way until we saw the glorious Laxapana Falls to our right. None of us needed to say to the other what we should do. Atha stopped the vehicle automatically and without a word being said, we got out and captured her from a long way away on our lenses.

Unfortunately, the water levels were not like what they were last we visited yet confirming our fears of not enough rains. The milky white water flow kept plunging down to the base where we couldn’t see. Gosh, how beautiful these waterfalls really are. Even though I was compelled to go see both Laxapana and Aberdeen once again having come so close to them, I had to restrain myself continuously repeating to myself that our agenda was something else. Hesitatingly, we both got back in and drove away towards the Maskeliya turn off while the seven virgins hid themselves like always in a thick veil of mist adding to their mystery.

Misty mountains and she’s falling nicely in the distance

My friends will know that I’d dearly take a cable cutter with me

Not much water but on our return journey we noticed the water levels had risen

Portrait

Mulgama Lower Falls

Passing lusty green hills and the dancing drizzling of water we reached Maussakelle around 7.30am. This is when we decided that enough was enough and we had to eat something no matter what. Interestingly enough, I learnt that Del House is the English name for Nallathanniya and felt pretty stupid not to have known it all this time despite having come across it numerous times, especially in trip reports. It proved that there’s plenty to learn still. After a poor meal of fish buns and black coffee (usually we have a sumptuous meal for breakfast as almost all the time we skip lunch (ask Kasun, Dhanushka, Tony, Sheham and even Hasi) and devote that time to keep exploring.

Arriving on the Maussakelle Dam which was completely devoid of life was a godsend as I spent nearly half hour walking from end to end enjoying the breath-taking view of the placid Maussakelle Reservoir and never ending mountains. Unfortunately, sacred mountain had decided to cover herself completely with an impregnable veil of light grey muslin cloth. We were offered some fruit from a Poojawa at the Saman Devalaya off the dam by a lady. Atha munched on a piece of pineapple while I grabbed a grape and took on the mesmerizing view. Further away we could see the twin falls falling either side up in the hills of Gartmore Estate. They looked very narrow and so far up giving me more jitters about the water levels.

We then got underway and closer to Mohini Falls noticed a fairly large waterfall to our left and jumped off the vehicle trying to capture her on our lenses. We found a path that runs down towards the Maussakelle Reservoir and the waterfall directly fell into the reservoir marking one end of the reservoir. It’s amazing to see the number of waterfalls falling directly into the reservoir and we saw 5 of them including Mulgama Lower Falls. Others were Mohini Ella (the lower most part), Gartmore Falls, Peak Field Falls and Peak Field Mini Falls.

The view was somewhat blocked by the overgrown trees but there simply wasn’t a way to get any closer. We decided to try from somewhere else and headed towards Mohini Falls that’s right by the roadside about 150m away.

Mystery solved, Del House = Nallathanniya

Isolated Maussakelle Dam

Simply breath-taking

Further in the distance is the Gartmore Estate and we could see the Gartmore Estate Falls from here

Sluice gates not open yet

Still good enough, Canadian-made

Powerplant?

We happened to come across her

Gorgeous looking greenery

We got to the path and came this close but not a hope of reaching the base

Zoomed in and she’s fairly large

Hitting the reservoir

The top covered by the trees

She’s so beautiful

Endless greenery but what’s up there?

Ooops!

Mohini Falls

She had a lot of water but not overflowing. It’s believed that this falls resembles a devil named “Mohini” thus the name for the falls. Villagers are believed to be very reluctant to go anywhere near her after its dark due to this reason. Despite all these folklore, we didn’t give a toss about the place being haunted or full of ghosts but her sheer beauty. She falls from a height of 30m right down to the base and then flows under the bridge and joins Maussakelle Reservoir.

Talking of Mohini Falls, I’d come across two very wrong descriptions of her. First being that she has a so much taller upper part and the second claims she has an even bigger lower part as well. From what we saw, you can neither see the top nor bottom parts from the road, just the 30m main body. However, if you drive along Moray Estate Road from the Mulgama Junction, after about 600-800m, you can see the top of Mohini Falls from the distance. Its height, I’d imagine, is around 20-30ft maximum in height and falls to a pool in the middle before making the main body of the falls. However she has this top most part where she slides along a rocky surface at an angle probably increasing her height but not by much, probably 10-15ft more.

I also wanted to check the bottom of the falls to make sure that there’s no such a long part. However, looking at it from the road made us think it was unlikely she’ll have a higher bottom part. On our return having visited Mulgama Upper Falls, Gartmore Falls and Peak Field Falls, I decided to climb down from Fishing Hut Road towards the Maussakelle Reservoir to check this and to get a better view of Mulgama Lower Falls. Unfortunately, after about 600m downhill journey and an elevation about 200ft, I came across two guys who were fishing in the reservoir and to my horror the falls was blocked by a large rocky boulder. I tried walking parallel to the reservoir bank but it was too slippery and dangerous thus abandoned on the idea.

Nevertheless, this served one other purpose. I saw the bottom most part of Mohini Ella that was not taller than maybe 10ft falling through bushes to the reservoir. What horrified me was the amount of garbage collected at the base of her on the surface of reservoir. There must’ve been a few tons of rotten garbage including plastic and polythene stuff. This is how the Sacred Mountain cleanses herself. Most of our rotten devotees to the Sri Pada leave everything they’ve used up dumped anywhere they find destroying the environment and adding onto Mother Nature’s burden. What those fools don’t understand is the Sacred Mountain doesn’t intend to be treated like that and she throws them all back at us by sending them in waves during the heavy rainy season cleansing her ruined beauty.

It was threatening to rain at any moment and we spent as long as we dare without putting our plans in jeopardy and went further up the road.

Beautiful Mohini, from the road

Close

Plenty of water

Right at the top

Silky smooth

The full package

Parting shot, that cable almost ruined the pic

Mulgama Upper Falls

Just as we were passing the top of Mulgama Lower Falls, I heard (we were travelling shutter-lowered) another roar of falling water. It’s now a familiar sound that has embedded in my brain and I seemed to have developed a very good sense too in knowing where the waterfalls are. We stopped by and I could see a falls about 15-20ft in height. No second thoughts and I ran down what was only visible path towards the Seetha Gangula but landed on the top of the falls. There was no way to reach the bottom but we saw a person chopping up some wood on the other bank and below the falls and decided to come around and do likewise.

After a few pictures and half a dozen leech attacks I got back on the road and insisted Atha drive as quickly as possible. We reached the Mulgama Junction and turned to left which is the Moray Estate Road, rather Fishing Hut Road. About 500m to the road, we stopped by and took the path through the tea patch parallel to the Seetha Gangula but after 150m or so it became so slippery and muddy. Having labored so much, we reached the bottom to be rewarded by a mini version of Sera Ella or Ramboda Oya Centre Falls.

She was as I said before about 10-15ft in height and that much wide. The rain was imminent and I was thankful for the umbrella but Atha very lazily and not wanting to wet his umbrella had left his in the vehicle. We took the pictures and rain came hard and fast at us with the winds. We squeezed under the umbrella protecting our phones and cameras as best as we can (I’m glad I’m a point-n-shoot guy not a DSLR one) and waited for it to pass. The rocks were like okra, very slippery and we had a tough time getting back. I wanted to tackle the water stream and reach the top of Mulgama Lower Falls and headed on downstream.

There were two more ladies and another guy who had joined the first person in chopping up some sticks for their farms and we headed towards them when out of nowhere I was looking up the sky lying on my back. Yeah, you guessed right, I had fallen off and my back and legs and right arm all started to hurt at once. I didn’t know what to do but simply stayed like that and Atha came and gave me a hand. My next picture was him falling face down next to me having slipped on a rock. The ladies nearby scream “Ai Ayyooooo” as if we were killed on the spot.

Atha got up and inspected him for injuries and found most skin on his right elbow has been peeled off and a scary looking stream of blood was beginning to come out. I got up and found no serious damage except some more bruises. Thankfully none of our electronics were damaged in the fall (thanks goodness for the point-n-shoots). I took it as a sign not to press ahead with our plans for the downstream journey and got back, with so much difficulty on the road and went back towards Mulgama Junction searching for plasters for the wounds.

Where I got down to see the falls

The top, we had to come around from the other end and managed to get to the bottom

More water

From the Moray Estate Road

Searching for Mulgama Lower Falls

Here she is

Amazing

Close up

The downstream and about 100m further down is the Lower Falls but our attempts to reach her simply got washed out

The base

All the garbage and plastic bottles had been washed ashore

One of my mandatory requirements in a journey

Cherry?

Wow

Long shot after our fall

Gartmore Falls

The road is not in very good condition, typical estate road but can manage even in a car if you drive at a snail’s speed and the caution of a deer. However not ideal to do so when it’s raining as the water-filled pot holes can be deeper than they appear. It’s about well 3-4km and stick to the Moray Estate Road that leads to their factory.

The road is one of the scenic ones you’d ever see and as I mentioned above you could see the top of Mohini’s about 800m into the road to your left. The view is not so clear due to the towering turpentine trees but should be ok so long as you keep an eye out for it. Please make sure it’s the passengers that keep an eye out for it not the driver, if not you’ll all be able to have a nice bath in the Maussakelle Reservoir.

We kept going till we reached the turn off to Fishing Hut (it’s to your right that goes uphill with the name placed in big letters using white stones). We could see the factory downhill (go straight) but waited for somebody come to get the proper directions. Gartmore Falls can be seen from here in the distance and the rain had decided to leave us in peace for the time being when a motorbike arrived from the factory side. He was the veterinarian of the area and told us that there’s a nice summer hut along the fishing hut road about 2km away where you could get a majestic view of Maussakelle Reservoir and Gartmore Falls. Unfortunately he wasn’t aware of Moray Falls that we wanted to see.

We drove up the road which was even more scenic and let me tell you now that Moray Estate is one of the most beautiful ones I’ve ever seen despite its road conditions. At the beginning of the road it’s said on a notice board only 4WD vehicles allowed. However, we took the chance of going in Atha’s Jeep and it struggled but managed to drive up. After about 15mins drive and around 2km we got to the two-storied summer hut. The view was, we’ll I’m beyond words to say how I felt. It was one of the most scenic views I’ve seen so far (I’ve seen quite a few of them) and it was simply spectacular. You could spend hours looking at this wonderful creature of the Mother Nature.

The summer hut was built of bamboo and hay mainly and had two floors. A two-storied summer hut? And overlooking this gorgeous environment? What else a man can ask for except for a cup of steaming coffee to savor the beauty. We could see the lush greenery to the slope in front of us and beyond at the edge of the reservoir to our 10 o’clock was the Moray Tea Factory. Beyond all that was the placid Maussakelle Reservoir. Towering over her was the Gartmore Estate and mountain range. To our 1 o’clock was the lusty Gartmore Falls, falling straight onto the reservoir. To your right was the road towards Fishing Hut and Rajamale area. We couldn’t see more than a few km as the mist was so thick and coming at us fast. Beyond the Gartmore Falls up in the hills were the twin falls or some would say Gartmore Estate Falls. Maskeliya Town was visible in the far while the sun was peering through the cloud barrier.

The water started to glisten in the golden rays of sun while the cool breeze coming from Gartmore and Upcot area chilled our exposed skin. The mist was coming down from the Sri Pada enveloping us little by little. We still had no idea where Moray Falls was and I called Hasi several times to find out the directions but it being a Sunday he must’ve been fast asleep so instead tried the trusted old source in Tony Mama. He was at work and while we waited got into Lakdasun and Hasi’s Report and read out the directions. We had to get down to the tea factory and take a by road from there. The mist completely obscured our view and it started raining heavily and we spent the time in the shade of the summer hut.

You can check the Documentary from the Summer Hut I shot here.

Getting back in the vehicle and we started to drive downhill but I got myself dropped about 1.5km from the turn off and started walking through this heavenly beautiful surroundings.

You can check the Walk the Talk Video here.

It was a heavenly experience but the sun had completely shut himself and the constant drizzling would’ve been a nuisance if it wasn’t for my umbrella. I walked and joined Atha at the turn off and we headed downhill towards the factory in search of Moray Falls.

One of the most beautiful estates I’ve seen

The reservoir in the background is simply great

Take the right hand path

Gartmore Estate beyond the water

The road we came up to the Fishing Hut turn off

Easy to find, to the right is the Fishing Hut road and straight on is the Factory and then Peak Field View

View from the junction

Carbon-copy of Devon Falls?

Portrait

Fishing Hut Road

After about 2km is this

Lack of maintenance probably has given it a dilapidated look

You can see the decaying bamboo

Panoramic view

Some more

There she is

Can see the Factory and the road that leads to it

Zoomed in

Gartmore Estate Falls, they join to make the Gartmore Falls

Other side bank

Just look at the color combination

Another portrait

I started walking

Lush greenery

Walking through heaven

Uphill

Manicured to the perfection

Couldn’t get enough of her

More to go

Yellow flowers adding to the already beautiful scenery

I guess you’d agree with me this is one of the most beautiful estates in SL

We’ll see what the board says

You can book it using the number

Endless

Droplets hanging

Here’s the warning note at the beginning of Fishing Hut Road

Here’s the path

Peak Field Falls

We managed to reach the tea factory which was closed and as mentioned in Hasi’s report found the two concrete paths to the right next to each other. Don’t take the one to right that goes uphill but the one goes downhill to the left. It’s almost invisible as soon as you turn to your right at the factory. They are very well paved and you can’t miss them. This is where things could go wrong if you don’t know what you’re looking for.

We asked at least half a dozen people where the Moray Falls is and none of them knew it. Everyone pointed at the Gartmore Falls that is clearly visible in the distance and when we insisted we wanted Moray Falls, they pointed back to where we came from saying, “That Moray Estate”. Oh dear, I was so frustrated and could recall what happened when we were desperately searching for Mount Vernon Falls in Dimbula Pathana. It was the same as nobody knew of the falls except Devon and St. Claire but with so much difficulty we managed to locate her.

However, finally one of the estate workers got our message that we were looking for a waterfall and he said some word which we didn’t quite catch. We followed him and about 600m on the road passing a shop too. As soon as you pass the shop which is on your right hand side the road will take a sharp bend to your right that goes uphill. From here you can see a green painted gate (most probably it’s open) to your left with a somewhat narrow road. This is the entrance to the Peak Field Estate and take that road but do stop at the gate.

Look at the notice on the gate. When you do, it’ll shock you coz there’s no Moray Falls anywhere near and you can search all you want but won’t find a thing. The notice on the gate has this both in Sinhala and English: Read carefully,

“Kindly note, due to the inconvenience caused, outsiders visiting the Peak Field Waterfall are only allowed through the Peak Field Estate Premises from 10.00am to 3.00pm on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.

Thank You

Management”

The moment we saw this, all the anxiety went away as we knew how hopeless it’d’ve been to keep looking for Moray Falls. The Moray Estate boundary is the factory and beyond that is the Peak Field Estate in which the falls is located after about 600m walk. We drove through and another 100m or saw was a closed gate and beyond that another 100m or saw was what looked like a bungalow. Beyond all this was lush tea plants followed by the reservoir and then at the far end falling majestically was, you guessed wrong, it was the Gartmore Falls not the other.

There were a couple of houses before the closed gate and a few workers were there and when we asked them about the Peak Field Falls, they simply pointed at the gate and said that we’d have to ask for permission. Remember, this was a Sunday, and people are not allowed on Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. Do keep that in mind as we were lucky but you might not be if you happen to go there on one of those days.

Having parked our vehicle, we walked through the opening next to the gate and reached the bungalow and the office. There was no one in sight even though a van was parked there. We hovered around looking for someone when an old uncle (Velu Mama) came walking up the path from the further below and he was surprised to see the strangers invading their territory. We then asked him about the falls and he said that we’d have to check with the officer in charge. He was sleeping and Velu went and knocked on the door while I was busy taking pics of the breath-taking Gartmore Falls. You remember I said before that Moray Estate was one of the most beautiful estates I’ve seen so far and you can now add Peak Field Estate too into that list. It’s the Maussakelle Reservoir, Gartmore Falls and Peak Field Falls that make it into that top category without a question.

We managed to wake him up, Mr. Rathnayaka, who was very friendly and after listening to our pleas and of course looking at Atha (he must’ve remembered his grandpa) he said we could go see the falls. It was helpful that only two of us were there. He then went onto say the troubles they have with visitors coming and dumping all sorts of garbage and drink liquor and throw everything at the reservoir. It is the same story wherever we go and we felt very sad and humiliated too.

Velu mama offered to take us to the falls and we walked along the footpath and all along Gartmore Falls was with us, smiling down at our soaked bodies. She must’ve wondered what on earth we were doing in the rain. As soon as we started walking towards the falls, there was a seasonal cascade to our right but not much water. Just bear in mind that to our right about 500ft up was the Fishing Hut Road and our summer hut (sorry it’s not our summer hut, slip of the fingers). That’s why we couldn’t see the Peak Field Estate clearly.

Walking further downhill I heard the sound of an M6 coming towards us. Now don’t look flabbergasted, I know you think I’m crazy from the toes to my head to imagine M6s in such a location but it was the same sound. I can still remember the sound Aberdeen and Laxapana Falls made (more like a dozen or so M6s coming bearing down on us) and suddenly it clicked that this could be the Peak Field Falls. Gosh, she must be huge and there should be plenty of water. I was dancing down the path practically running waving my umbrella like a sword heading into the battle.

Atha beat me to it and at the first sight he turned around and shouted “Sri, Andenawa Thani Ehata” and I ran downhill and turning to my right what I saw stunned me and stopped me in my tracks. There was this massive body of water coming through a dense forest and falling down about 100ft right into the reservoir sending a cloud of water drops all around. It was one of the greatest moments in my travels. We went slowly along the path to the edge of the reservoir to get as closer to her as possible. She was so rich and ripe and I couldn’t get enough of her but the hovering dark clouds made the lighting rubbish but as if hearing our pleas, the sky cleared as if in magic and there was a stream of sunlight across the falls making her radiant. Only thing lacking was, a rainbow.

There was another waterfall so close to us falling onto the reservoir but there was very little water in her despite she was as tall or even taller than Peak Field Falls (hard to say that name, ain’t it?) proving that there were two different streams feeding these two beauties even though they were so much closer to each other. We named her the Peak Field Mini Falls and Velu mama was so surprised to see the mad rush in us having seen these ladies. There was a worker too helping out clearing the paths and very reluctantly having taken a few dozen pics.

We got back to the office and woke Mr. Rathnayake once again to thank him and got back having tipped Velu Mama for accompanying us. As if on cue, the moment we got into the vehicle it started pouring with rain. We were given that window to go see this lady in style. We headed back towards Del House and on the way I got down to Reservoir trying to get a better pic of Mulgama Lower Falls but was not so lucky but realized there was no bigger lower part of Mohini Falls.

Moray Tea Factory

Please note this

Red flowers, common in upcountry

The closed gate

Garbage collection points… amazing, ain’t it?

The road to the bungalow cum office, in the distance is Gartmore Falls

No one in sight

What wouldn’t I give to be in a place like this?

Atha and Velu Mama heading towards Peak Field Falls

Gartmore with us all along

She simply won’t stay away, tempting me all the time

Through the tea estate

Portrait

The path and the falls

Seasonal cascade at the beginning of the path

Anyone home?

Rain eased…

The mountain in the background of Gartmore Estate

Here we are

Oh my gosh!

Top of her

Middle

Portrait

Serene Maussakelle Reservoir, just beyond is Gartmore Falls

She’s super

Velu mama on the left and another worker we met

Sun appeared out of nowhere

“Mysterious girl, I wanna get close to you”

The falls nearby, we named her Peak Field Mini Falls

Not much water

Very high

Time to go

One of the nicest quotes

Heading back

Top of Mohini

Clear shot

The bus that goes to Moray Estate

The part we see on the road of Mohini

Here she is

Full pic

Started going down

Greenery

After a lot of difficulty, got down

Base of Mohini, no big part

See the garbage collection

They were fishing

The Waterfalls along the Path from Del House to Peace Pagoda

We arrived at Del House and stopped at Mama Kade just passing the giant Buddha Statue. The town was pretty much muddy and isolated save for a few rain coated villagers going about their business. We stopped and asked the girl if there was anything to eat and she said there was Roti. The imaginary pic of hot Roti with Lunu Miris made my mouth salivating and we ran into the shop. All my dreams evaporated in seconds to find ice cold Roti and not so good looking Lunu Miris but did we have any choice, afraid not.

There were only three of them available and we washed them down with tasty coffee (that girl knows how to make coffee) and got ready to walk the path. Most of them thought that we were planning on climbing the Sri Pada but when we said that we were on visiting waterfalls; most of them looked at us as if we were aliens. It was still raining and we took shelter in our umbrellas and carried along the muddy path jumping over the puddles. The Seetha Gangula looked ferocious sending hundreds of thousands of gallons of brownish water downstream. The stalls normally full of vendors and buyers during the season were abandoned, their roofs partially gone in the strong gusts, doors stood ajar and the racks were falling down. Stray dogs and cats found shelter in these crumbling structures and looked forlornly at us.

We could see the top of a mighty big waterfall and thought it could be the Sri Pada Falls, I know now you’re confused coz you know Gartmore Falls as the Sri Pada Falls but not in my book. I guess Shareez and Uncle Tony had found out and confirmed the waterfall close to Makara Thorana is not Rajamale Falls but the actual Sri Pada Falls. Any how it’s very unlikely for this falls to be called Rajamale as it’s on the other side of the mountain. So we’ll stick to Sri Pada Falls if you guys don’t mind.

Getting closer we saw suddenly to our right a few streaks of white lines, do you guys remember the rocky surface that runs all the way to your right around Makara Thorana and Peace Pagoda? Looking closer we realized they were seasonal cascades that come down the rocky slab among bushes. I remembered a pic taken by Shareez some time ago and ever since was dreaming of taking something like that. Looking at the scene unfolding in front of me was exactly the same thing and I forgot that it was raining in my rush to take a pic. There were maybe half a dozen or so waterfalls; one making a few cascaded on the downward journey.

We reached the Makara Thorana and then the skeleton bridge at Seethagangulagama where these cascades were visible nicely. What amazed me most was the waterfall under the bridge, not right under it but about 20ft away from it where the Seethagangula crosses the path and then falls down about 30-40ft creating this mighty waterfall. During the season, there’s very little of this and there’s no path to get down and take a clear pic so most of the times, this waterfall goes unnoticed. The ones climbing up are in a hurry to go up as soon as possible, if they do it at night, this is out of the question and for those who coming down have nothing but getting to Del House ASAP.

The amount of water in this simply amazed me but there was no way of taking a clear pic of her. We could see a hut someway down on the other side but it has been a place used by a monk who had passed away about one and half years ago. There were a few Tamil people who got so scared when we said that we’d like to get down to the hut and take some pics. They frantically warned us not to go there saying the place is haunted. I cared nothing about ghosts but there simply wasn’t a way to get down even after we checked with the Civil Defense Forces (CDF) soldiers who were at work nearby.

We then went on towards Peace Pagoda maneuvering through the slippery path and in the distance we saw the super tall Yaka Andu Ella. There wasn’t a sign of the Sacred Peak due to the fog but the Peace Pagoda rose majestically towards the sky which was laden with water-clogged clouds. To the left of it was the Yaka Andu Ella falling down from at a guess about 600ft above. There was a person who was supplying basic items for the CDF soldiers such as rice, vegetables, etc. and he was very interested to speak with us.

When I said that we were there to see the Yaka Andu Ella he said that even he wasn’t aware of the falls name was that. He was boasting that this could be the tallest in SL and so many of my attempts at convincing him that she wasn’t fell in deaf ears. The rain eased as if on cue allowing us some time to take pics in peace. I was so hungry and asked if he’d have anything for us to eat but even the CDF soldiers were still cooking their lunch, time was around 3.30pm. Feeling ravenous but so content in our minds we started walking back towards Makara Thorana hoping to visit Sri Pada Falls when it started raining once again.

Having reached the Makara Thorana we sheltered nearby the wildlife office waiting for a break to visit the falls. She was about 50m away but the view was blocked by the trees and we had to walk up through the tea estate to get a clear view of her. The rain was relentless and I was praying for a break. The time had gone 4.30pm and it was getting darker by the minute and out of nowhere I got this feeling to start walking towards the falls despite the rain. We both tackled the slippery rocks and reached a point we got a majestic view of the falls.

What happened next was truly intriguing. The rain stopped immediately the moment we reached a point where we could take a pic of the falls. You might say I’m too superstitious which I’m not but I had so much faith in Mother Nature and she delivered it in style every time we needed a break to take pics. Looking back, it was the same throughout the day. Talking about the Sri Pada Falls, she was one grand beauty and you could simply keep looking at no matter what happened around you.

She’s about 120ft in height and wider than most of the falls we saw that day. This was the perfect ending to a perfect day. We got even closer and took few pics and videos before calling it a day and heading back towards Del House.

We reached Mama Kade once again hoping for a good cuppa coffee made by that little girl but she wasn’t there but there was a single Roti they had made which we ate like beggars. The coffee made by the Mudalali was nowhere near the quality of that little girl (he needs a lesson from her) but it warmed our chilled inside.

We left and on our way saw the water levels of Mohini Falls have risen and stopped by to take a few more pics even in the rain and were on our way.

We took the same road back and the mountainous road was covered in mist. We were practically lost in a world of its own. All in all, it was a super duper day and we enjoyed every minute of it to the maximum. The weather was very kind to us and Mother Nature looked after us.

The bridge across Seetha Gangula

Water levels rising

Mini Falls under the bridge

I simply love this board, maybe coz it has my name on it

Seasonal cascades all around

Misty and you can barely see some of the white streaks

Mini cascades all along the water stream

Skeleton bridge under which goes the Seethagangulagama Falls

Left of the bridge

The right and at the end is the top of the falls, to the left of the downhill is where that monk used to stay

Still standing

The pic I was dreaming about

Closer and compact

Singling out

Individual cascades

Individual cascades

Individual cascades

It’s a view one can keep looking at without getting bored

Atha leading the way

At the foot of the steps

Frontal view

Commemoration plaque

The writing underneath

The steps from the top

Isolated

Peace Pagoda and Yaka Andu Ella in the background

Golden Buddha Statue placed in front of the Pagoda there

Misty Yaka Andu Ella

Closer

Plenty of tears

Peace Pagoda looking majestic amid all this

At the Makara Thorana

Waiting for a break

Our target, too close yet too far

Close up

The path to the waterfall is from here to the left

If you climb these you can get a better view from the distance, to right path will take you to the base

From a distance

Zoomed in

Going towards the base

She’s unbelievably beautiful

Portrait

Upper part

The Bottom

Saying good bye

On the way back, Mohini got more water

Plunging down under the bridge

Ciao…

Well guys, I guess you could take a look at the Panos I took during the journey.

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 8

So there ends yet another of my Tour de Waterfalls, the 8^th to date and this was one of my favorite. Guess what, I was asked a few times what my favorite waterfall was and found out that I was stuck to give an answer. There are so many I’ve seen so far, (close to 200) and can’t put my finger on any one in particular. However, on second thoughts, St. Claire has been very close to my heart and if she was alive, I’d have had no trouble saying it was her that my favorite. However, now I’m reluctant to do that coz most of the people will remember a rocky surface with a few cascades falling down when I say St. Claire.

Thinking of her always make my heart aches but what to do. Hope you guys enjoyed it and loved the pics as much as I did taking them.

Hoping to do another soon always supposing time permits.

Take care and keep travelling and curse the ones who killed my beloved St. Claire.

Cheers

Sri…